How to create borders:
Once you finish your dimensions, insert ¼-inch seam and leave space to each side of your textile. The side borders should measure up to 10 x 34, i.e. width and length. The finishing measurement is factored into the ¼-inch seams you inserted. You will need to take up the spaces or seams left (later) to complete your borders. Once you insert ¼ inch you will have created 10 ½ x 34 1/2, which is the inches you will use to cut to fit the borders along the side. Use the same dimensions to cut at least two borders. The borders will cover each side of your fabric. Now measure the lower and upper borders. Add your blocks together to achieve your size. Follow the same method as outlined in the example above. Once you achieve your dimensions finish the width on one side of your borders. You should have counted 10 x 43, width and length unless you are quilting a larger or smaller quilt.
Next, insert another ¼ inch to your seams and leave space to each side. Refer to your measurements 10 x 43.
You will need to cut from the borders to achieve 10 ½ x 43 ½ inch to fit the edges at the top and bottom of your fabric.
You are creating a framed quilt so to speak. You may need to trim your borders to fit.
How to trim borders:
Starting at the crown of your quilt and working down to the middle, measure your quilt. You wan the length dimensions. If your dimensions are 30 ½ inches, thus round it off to the nearest tenth, i.e. 30 to complete your calculations: You will need to insert ¼ inch into the seams and make room for your sides. Next, use measuring tape, or a ruler to measure your quilt. Measure from the alongside and factor in the dimensions of your borders. Now insert the ¼-inch seams to the sides.
Once you finish your borders, you will need to start stitching after your prep the strips of your borders. Start by folding your strips. You will need to fold them in half and search for the middle, then press until your borders crease. You can pin to mark. Now find the middle of your sides by performing the same action as you did above. Mark again, and then start stitching your quilt. The center should be aligned. The right sides should come together, as well the crown should center. You will need craft pins to hold your ends in tact.
Along the length, start stitching your borders. You will need to work the fabric as you stitch to keep it in tact. If you are sewing on a machine, you can place the excess over your machine parts, which accept the input of your fabric (Feeder dog) to align. Hold back the shorter top layer and begin stitching slowly. The feeder will work the layers through.
You can pull the layers at the top through to slow the excess while allowing your feeder to pull the layer at the lower end through. Now connect your borders, by stitching it to your quilt. Insert the side of your fabric and allow your feeder to pull back the layers at the top. Press out your borders and leave a seam to work through the fabric border.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
How Much Backing and Binding Fabric Do I Need?
For the standard CRIB size quilt you will need 1 3/4 yards for the backing and 3/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard TWIN size quilt you will need 5 1/4 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard DOUBLE size quilt you will need 5 1/4 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard QUEEN size quilt you will need 7 1/2 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard KING size quilt you will need 8 1/4 yards for the backing and 3/4 yard for the binding.
For the standard TWIN size quilt you will need 5 1/4 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard DOUBLE size quilt you will need 5 1/4 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard QUEEN size quilt you will need 7 1/2 yards for the backing and 5/8 yard for the binding.
For the standard KING size quilt you will need 8 1/4 yards for the backing and 3/4 yard for the binding.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Quilted Cube Purse
Yesterday I made this cube purse 
from a pattern by Reanna Lily Designs. I like it very much just the way it is, but..... I think I will play with it a litte bit. Maybe add a couple more pockets. Maybe try 2 ribbon ties instead of magnet. Or maybe I will try a velcro closing where it calls for the magnet.
This pattern is perfect for layer cakes (package of layer cakes will make 2 purses. You can also use fabric by the yard. Using her yardage figures I had half enough fabric for a second purse. She also gives instructions for cutting up old uniforms and making the purse from these pieces. If you like making quilted purses the pattern can be found HERE
from a pattern by Reanna Lily Designs. I like it very much just the way it is, but..... I think I will play with it a litte bit. Maybe add a couple more pockets. Maybe try 2 ribbon ties instead of magnet. Or maybe I will try a velcro closing where it calls for the magnet.
This pattern is perfect for layer cakes (package of layer cakes will make 2 purses. You can also use fabric by the yard. Using her yardage figures I had half enough fabric for a second purse. She also gives instructions for cutting up old uniforms and making the purse from these pieces. If you like making quilted purses the pattern can be found HERE
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Tater Bag
This free pattern is from Warm Tater
Cooking time estimates based on an 1100 watt microwave oven with a turntable. If you do not have a turntable, you will need to turn your bag over at the midpoint of the suggested cook time to prevent scorching. Wash raw vegetables prior to cooking. Drying is not necessary as the extra moisture aids in cooking.
Free 10” Square Potato Bag Pattern
1. Warm Tater and your cotton fabrics do not need to be pre-washed. Once complete you will wash together. Measure the inside dimension of your microwave and adjust the pattern accordingly considering that the finished bag must be at least 1 full inch away from the walls and door of the microwave. CAUTION: If your microwave has a turntable, it is important that your potato bag be allowed to freely rotate or scorching may occur that could lead to fire if left unattended.
2. Cut a 23’ long x 11” wide piece of Warm Tater cotton and 2 pieces of 100% cotton fabric. One is the lining and the other is decorator fabric.
3. Layer the Warm Tater cotton between the two layer of fabric right sides out. Ouilt or tack layers together leaving no more that 5” open.
4. Surge or sew using a zig zag stitch the 3 layers together on all sides.
5. Create finished hems on each of the width ends by folding the fabric to the inside a ½’ and sewing it down using a straight stitch.
6. Fold the fabrics into a 11’ square inside out with the hems centered and overlapping 1”. Pin and sew all sides with a straight stitch and ½” seam allowances.
7. Turn right side out. Machine wash cold water and dry in warm dryer before use. ENJOY! Do not leave microwave unattended while cooking.
Cooking time estimates based on an 1100 watt microwave oven with a turntable. If you do not have a turntable, you will need to turn your bag over at the midpoint of the suggested cook time to prevent scorching. Wash raw vegetables prior to cooking. Drying is not necessary as the extra moisture aids in cooking.
Free 10” Square Potato Bag Pattern
1. Warm Tater and your cotton fabrics do not need to be pre-washed. Once complete you will wash together. Measure the inside dimension of your microwave and adjust the pattern accordingly considering that the finished bag must be at least 1 full inch away from the walls and door of the microwave. CAUTION: If your microwave has a turntable, it is important that your potato bag be allowed to freely rotate or scorching may occur that could lead to fire if left unattended.
2. Cut a 23’ long x 11” wide piece of Warm Tater cotton and 2 pieces of 100% cotton fabric. One is the lining and the other is decorator fabric.
3. Layer the Warm Tater cotton between the two layer of fabric right sides out. Ouilt or tack layers together leaving no more that 5” open.
4. Surge or sew using a zig zag stitch the 3 layers together on all sides.
5. Create finished hems on each of the width ends by folding the fabric to the inside a ½’ and sewing it down using a straight stitch.
6. Fold the fabrics into a 11’ square inside out with the hems centered and overlapping 1”. Pin and sew all sides with a straight stitch and ½” seam allowances.
7. Turn right side out. Machine wash cold water and dry in warm dryer before use. ENJOY! Do not leave microwave unattended while cooking.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Monday, February 7, 2011
What size should my quilt be?
When deciding what size to make you quilt you first need to know the size of the bed and the size of the mattress, then you need to decide if you want to make a coverlet, blanket or full length and do you want to cover any pillows.
Amish Country Quilts has a creat quilt size calculator HERE !
Amish Country Quilts has a creat quilt size calculator HERE !
Sunday, February 6, 2011
My Next Project
Is what I call this, the overall size is 14” by 32”
To make it I am using 1 yard of fabric to create my 2” borders and sashings and 3 8” by 10” photos I took when the volcano was erupting printed on fabric.
I chose these particular photos because I liked the way my camera lens and sun worked together to pick up the extra colors. I thought it made photos interesting and unusual
My "Spinning Wheels" Quilt
Overall size 96” by 104”
I made this quilt for a queen size bed allowing for overhang on all four sides since I used the block to block with no border design. To get the directions for this quilt in a pdf file click here.
Friday, February 4, 2011
The Twin Size Quilt
The common size for a twin mattress is 39” by 75”” so a lot of quilters will tell you the size of the quilt should be 63” by 87”.
Other quilters using blocks to create a twin quilt like the size 38” by 74”. If you are using blocks to cover just your mattress top and will be adding a border the number of blocks needed depends on the size of the block. For example
BLOCK SIZE # OF BLOCKS NEEDED THE LAYOUT
4” 162 9X18
6” 72 6X12
8 36 4 X 9
9” 32 4X8
10” 21 3 X 7
12” 18 3X6
Other quilters using blocks to create a twin quilt like the size 38” by 74”. If you are using blocks to cover just your mattress top and will be adding a border the number of blocks needed depends on the size of the block. For example
BLOCK SIZE # OF BLOCKS NEEDED THE LAYOUT
4” 162 9X18
6” 72 6X12
8 36 4 X 9
9” 32 4X8
10” 21 3 X 7
12” 18 3X6
Wednesday, February 2, 2011
THE CRIB QUILT
The common size for a crib mattress is 27” by 52” so a lot of quilters will tell you the size of the quilt should be 36” by 60”. This would require a pre cut batting of 45” by 60”.
Other quilters using blocks to create a crib or baby quilt like the size 38” by 48”. If you are using blocks to cover just your mattress top and will be adding a border the number of blocks needed depends on the size of the block. For example
BLOCK SIZE # OF BLOCKS NEEDED THE LAYOUT
4” 84 6 X 8
6” 40 5 X 8
8” 24 4 X 8
9” 15 3 X 5
10” 15 3 X 5
12” 8 2 X 4
Other quilters using blocks to create a crib or baby quilt like the size 38” by 48”. If you are using blocks to cover just your mattress top and will be adding a border the number of blocks needed depends on the size of the block. For example
BLOCK SIZE # OF BLOCKS NEEDED THE LAYOUT
4” 84 6 X 8
6” 40 5 X 8
8” 24 4 X 8
9” 15 3 X 5
10” 15 3 X 5
12” 8 2 X 4
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Saturday, January 29, 2011
How to make templates
Templates are patterns so to speak, only with templates you cut the materials you need from strong fabrics. Otherwise, if you were making patterns you would cut the templates from ordinary paper.
At what time you create templates, you are making your quilt making process easier. The surface patterns will flow consistently as well. You can use your created templates and trace along your patterns, instead of pinning graphing paper to your quilt material. You can purchase ready-made templates, however if you create your own you will save money. You can purchase transparent plastics at craft stores, or stores that carry supplies, such as craft, paper, pencils, etc. If you choose plastic, you will need to individually, trace your patterns. You will need allowance for your seams. After you create your patterns, cut your templates. The plastic templates are ideal for making larger quilts.
Straight grains make up woven textiles. The grain lines run comparably along the edges of the non-fraying edges in the materials. Across the “straight grain,” is another line known as the “cross grain.” Crafters use the term to define the lines, such as “Fabric on the grain.” You will need to eliminate the edges, by cutting it off.
The non-frayed edges are makes up the areas that have not been cut, especially around the label and the snug woven areas.
How to create basic templates:
Creating templates is as simple as tracing your footprints on paper. To create your templates you will need to choose plastic and/or paper. Once you make your choice you will need to trace your template to paper, add a few permitted seams, and then use adhesive to add your trace to a clip of hard copy, i.e. cardboard or the like and cutout your templates. Stop: before you cut your templates, first replicate copies and play with the patterns until you achieve your desired mark. Once you achieve your patterns add numbers and/or letters to mark your pattern. This will help you remember where each template goes. Next, you will cut your pattern parts out, using common scissors. Cut the outside areas only at the edges. You will need to create one template per piece to add to your quilt.
Next, trace your patterns, tracing the parts onto your plastic and/or paper. Space the parts once inch in all directions, and away from the other. Use a measuring device, such as a ruler to draw ¼-inch line at the outer outline. On your templates, create a dot. You want the dots to meet two seams per count. The dots are important to mark your stitching areas.
Next, use your direction of textile thread lines (Grain line) and convey the arrows you have created from your model parts and relocate it to your template. You have made basic templates; however, there is a variety to choose from.
Tip: You can invent templates using software installed on your computer.
In addition to the basic templates, you can make window templates. The templates are ideal for those want to pierce by hand. You can also make templates for pre-prepared designs. Window templates can assist the beginners, since you will have a marked line to follow through when you begin stitching. The windows are easy to make, yet you must follow the “hand piercing: rules to complete your patterns. You can also add templates to your window, which may include emblems such as roses, bouquets, etc. Regardless the window, basic, or other types of templates can lead up to a block/border pattern, rather a fashionable quilt.
At what time you create templates, you are making your quilt making process easier. The surface patterns will flow consistently as well. You can use your created templates and trace along your patterns, instead of pinning graphing paper to your quilt material. You can purchase ready-made templates, however if you create your own you will save money. You can purchase transparent plastics at craft stores, or stores that carry supplies, such as craft, paper, pencils, etc. If you choose plastic, you will need to individually, trace your patterns. You will need allowance for your seams. After you create your patterns, cut your templates. The plastic templates are ideal for making larger quilts.
Straight grains make up woven textiles. The grain lines run comparably along the edges of the non-fraying edges in the materials. Across the “straight grain,” is another line known as the “cross grain.” Crafters use the term to define the lines, such as “Fabric on the grain.” You will need to eliminate the edges, by cutting it off.
The non-frayed edges are makes up the areas that have not been cut, especially around the label and the snug woven areas.
How to create basic templates:
Creating templates is as simple as tracing your footprints on paper. To create your templates you will need to choose plastic and/or paper. Once you make your choice you will need to trace your template to paper, add a few permitted seams, and then use adhesive to add your trace to a clip of hard copy, i.e. cardboard or the like and cutout your templates. Stop: before you cut your templates, first replicate copies and play with the patterns until you achieve your desired mark. Once you achieve your patterns add numbers and/or letters to mark your pattern. This will help you remember where each template goes. Next, you will cut your pattern parts out, using common scissors. Cut the outside areas only at the edges. You will need to create one template per piece to add to your quilt.
Next, trace your patterns, tracing the parts onto your plastic and/or paper. Space the parts once inch in all directions, and away from the other. Use a measuring device, such as a ruler to draw ¼-inch line at the outer outline. On your templates, create a dot. You want the dots to meet two seams per count. The dots are important to mark your stitching areas.
Next, use your direction of textile thread lines (Grain line) and convey the arrows you have created from your model parts and relocate it to your template. You have made basic templates; however, there is a variety to choose from.
Tip: You can invent templates using software installed on your computer.
In addition to the basic templates, you can make window templates. The templates are ideal for those want to pierce by hand. You can also make templates for pre-prepared designs. Window templates can assist the beginners, since you will have a marked line to follow through when you begin stitching. The windows are easy to make, yet you must follow the “hand piercing: rules to complete your patterns. You can also add templates to your window, which may include emblems such as roses, bouquets, etc. Regardless the window, basic, or other types of templates can lead up to a block/border pattern, rather a fashionable quilt.
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